A sign suspended from a building. The sign reads: Mount Royal Tavern
The sign for Mount Royal Tavern Credit: Myles Michelin

Baltimore has so many incredible restaurants, and in this list of places to eat and drink, we highlight and disparage— from the magnificent to the messy.  

Baltimore has long been a revolving door for restauranteurs. That’s old news. But Ashish Alfred’s departure from Fells Point this summer left a foul aftertaste. In June — in tandem with Fox 45’s reporting (if we can call it that) on alleged crime concerns throughout the neighborhood — the chef announced the temporary closure of his eateries on South Broadway and Thames Street, along with his two restaurants in Bethesda and D.C. He cited his growing safety concerns for both patrons and staff, but failed to mention the various lawsuits impacting his businesses: one alleging sexual harassment, retaliation, and discrimination at the hands of Alfred, and another claiming Alfred terminated an employee for discussing payment issues.

It’s not open on Sundays, but a trip to Upper Fells Point’s Little Donna’s for a cocktail and pierogies drenched in brown-buttery lobster sauce is sacred. We don’t take this restaurant lightly, sometimes waiting outside fifteen minutes prior to its opening to snag a high-top table. And the wait is always more than worth it. Everything chef/owner Robbie Tutlewski touches — from crab pancakes to smoked trout dip to persimmon pizza — turns to gold. Both regulars and newcomers are treated like old buddies. We suggest making a reservation yesterday, if not sooner. 

Year after year, Honey Graham takes the cake as the most talked-about ice cream flavor in town. If you’re picturing a pint of plain vanilla with a few sprinkles of crushed graham cracker pieces in the mix…try that on steroids. The Taharka Brothers team was thinking way outside the carton when they took a rich, graham cracker-flavored ice cream base and paired it with a buttery graham cracker swirl we wish that we could bottle. It’s a sweet-and-salty homage to a snack we all grew up with. And it’s from a Black-owned ice cream shop, so, technically, it’s good for you. 

When The Royal Blue opened in the space that once held the beloved Black gay bar – Gallery One, also known as “The Gallery,” it almost immediately established itself as a new fixture in Station North and one that provided an updated opportunity for folks to seek food and entertainment.

With its disco pit and stellar menu, especially the tater tots and frozen rosés, it opened the door to a new place for people to congregate and unwind, with industry nights, bingo nights, and a jam-packed dance floor all weekend and every weekend. 

It hosts baby showers, wedding receptions, and comedy shows — it’s an eclectic, modern, and utterly cool place to be. It is the perfect update/remix of the past while paying homage to it (check out the bartop of collaged flyers from Charm City Art Space) and also provides a space for artists and creatives to work and play. 

The Coral Wig is sexy. This tiny bar is packed with ambiance — a chic interior, elegant and knowledgeable staff, a menu of cocktails including mango margaritas, martinis, and daiquiris, and a great happy hour. And with its lights always turned down low and a soundtrack that ranges from ambient to bossa nova, it’s the best place to take the affair you want to remember.

The Coral Wig is located adjacent to, and kind of underneath, Hotel Ulysses. Unlike Blooms, which I consider the place to see with your friends with its 1980s mirror and velvet interior, The Wig offers a sumptuous alternative. It is a place where you can slip under the cover of sensual darkness, drink a strong cocktail, and stare into the eyes of someone scintillating. 

Last year, we suggested that TikTok food star Keith Lee come to Baltimore and pay a visit to BLK Swan. He ignored us, as is his right, and instead visited Rooted Rotisserie. Even before he stopped by the Hollins Market restaurant, leaving a $4,000 tip, Rooted Rotisserie was already quickly becoming a city favorite. Husband and wife team Amanda and Joe Burton told us that the magic in their food (dishes like rotisserie chicken, confit potatoes, and charred shrimp) is in their intentionality and their commitment to keeping it simple.

“Everybody now feels like you have, like, a star thing on the menu,” Amanda told us. “No shade to that… but we eat out a lot, and sometimes we just want regular food.” 

Three bowls of food sit on a wooden table.
A trio of food options on display at Mama Koko’s in Old Goucher. Credit: Shae McCoy

There’s something about Mama Koko’s, which opened this summer, that feels very neo soul. Like if 2002 Erykah Badu walked in, wearing a headwrap and carrying some incense, nobody would bat an eye. 

“​​Think grown and sexy meets casual neighborhood hub with small plates, craft coffee, artisan cocktails, and mocktails at reasonable prices,” Angela N. Carroll wrote about the Old Goucher establishment.

Their bar bites are our favorite part of the menu. They offer wings (lemon pepper or rum buttered buffalo), liberian meatballs, roasted sweet potatoes, and more. 

There’s no dog like a Glizzy dog. Glizzy’s Wagyu Dogs have developed a cult following in Baltimore, popping up outside bars and clubs late at night and at artisan markets and block parties. When their truck was hit by an 18-wheeler, fans jumped at the opportunity to buy Glizzy merch to support owner Casey Jarvis and keep his food cart going. They’ve got a variety of inventive Wagyu beef hot dogs and a vegan option, so everyone can indulge. 

You’re going to want to linger on the stretch of Eastern Avenue that runs through Highlandtown. It’s a vibrant, bustling thoroughfare of the city that’s adopted cuisines from every generation of immigrants that have made their home in the historic neighborhood. Try the pupusas at Diner Latino, pho from Indoviet, empanadas from Francesca’s Empanada Cafe, or sausages from Snake Hill Tavern. 

Club Charles’s propensity for randomly shutting down is something we can’t explain, but we love them anyway. You’ll always find strong cocktails, great conversation, and sometimes John Waters at our favorite watering hole. 

Of course we’re giving our Best Cocktails award to the bar that invented the Spaghett. While you can’t go wrong with that classic, Wet City is always bringing new delicious cocktails to their menu that’ll become your go-to. The Purple Marg is a year-round favorite of ours, but with the weather getting colder, give their hot cider a try. 

Peabody Heights Brewery is a place we always associate with joy. The spacious brewery in Abell brings together Baltimore residents with its flea markets, dance parties and weekly trivia, karaoke and chess nights. They reflect the beauty and authenticity of Baltimore with homages to Memorial Stadium and former Orioles legends painted on the walls. The bartenders are always warm and the beer is always cold.

Mount Royal Tavern might be the best bar in Baltimore City. If you are looking for a quintessential night in Baltimore, look no further than the West Mount Royal Avenue corner. 

When it was announced that the bar would be sold to new owners, I was hesitant that my beloved bar would transform into something else. It’s nice to see it become a slightly more sophisticated but no less fun place to be. If you’re attempting to celebrate or commiserate, try one of Chloe’s apple pie shots.

Some changes have been made — primarily cosmetic. The bathrooms have been renovated, and MRT now takes electronic card payments (but still bring dollars for the jukebox and cash to tip your bartenders).

And now you can drink outside on their newly renovated outdoor patio during limited hours. But these changes haven’t changed the spirit or soul of The “Dirt Church” (go look up at the ceiling next time you’re in there).

MRT is also the best place to watch the Ravens in all their glory. 

Ekiben is already a beloved brand, but whether they’re dunking on the NFL team the Ravens beat that week, having one of their employees try and hype up new menu items, or photoshopping an Ekiben bag into the background of a viral photo, their Instagram is a must-follow.